ADY steering

The thing that has made me to waste more time, in the planning phase, has been the steering.  Hubs and geometry, sometime, have keep me awake during the night in order to find a solution, therefore in case you want to realize a “trike” some details can be a useful line of departure.  Here some ideas and who wants information or the drawings can contact me. 
Remember that they are only ideas and, even if I had no problems till now, I do not assume responsibility about dimensions.

l.delorenzi@libero.it




For the angles I have given 4° of negative camber, in order to improve the road-holding in curve and to reduce the overall width.
The axis of the steering, that passes for the center of the spherical joints, has 18° regarding wheel “kingpin” and 22° on the vertical line (to have a negative 5 millimeters of steering offset ) and an inclination “caster” of 12° plus an advance of steering of 16 millimeter (so we have 35 millimeters at ground).   In order to make this I have used two iron blocks with the dimensions that you found later.   It is the only thing that I have not made (thank you Matteo) because drill and males of exaggerated dimensions are used!     If you want, also aluminum can be used, I think that is not a problem and with a beautiful saving of weight.
The blocks have two sides cut to 18° thus can be pierced with a column drill.
Remember to make them symmetrical and not equal.
For spherical joints I have used 12 millimeter self-lubricating ones, to be precise SKF SA 12 C.
The wheels hubs (in my case Pazzaz for downhill, 110 millimeter and 36 holes) have a 20 millimeter hole and therefore a standard bolts 160 millimeter long and threaded M20 for 52 millimeter goes very well, eventually, if you are of the refined ones, lighten them.
The M20 nut has been turned to a diameter of 24 millimeter for 5 millimeter to be able to enter in the pierced block (25/26 millimeter for 6 millimeter).    If you do not want turn nut, and pierce the block, lowers it by 5 millimeter.    This is important because otherwise, protruding, they, during the curves, would touch against the irons ( C 30x20x2 millimeter) that support the spherical joints.
For the same reason it is extremely important that these irons supports are not in axis regarding the wheels but at 40°.
A greater inclination, steering in other direction, would make to touch the disc brake!
Connecting road of the steering is mild steel of 6 millimeter threaded M6 to the extremities with spherical joints self-lubricating (in my case SKF SIKB 6 F).    Do not use absolutely threaded bars or soft iron, they are loaded at the tip and would be folded!
Since the two connecting road cross them, since disc brakes, not being build left and rights, are up and down mounted and since steering arm are mounted at different heights, calculation it’s a complicate job!



In order to magnify the following photos  "click" with the mouse


Here some drawings
                                                                    
The last update was the use of long arms to redoce stearing hardening at full angle.


                                                                Luciano De Lorenzi

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