The thing that has made me to
waste more time, in the
planning phase, has been
the steering. Hubs and geometry, sometime, have keep me awake
during the
night
in order to find a solution, therefore in case you want to realize a
“trike” some details can be a useful line of
departure. Here some ideas and who wants information or the
drawings can
contact me.
Remember that
they are only ideas and, even if I had no problems till now, I
do not assume responsibility about dimensions.
l.delorenzi@libero.it
For the
angles I have given 4° of negative camber, in order to improve
the road-holding in curve and to reduce the overall width.
The axis of the steering, that passes for the center of the spherical
joints, has 18° regarding wheel “kingpin”
and
22° on the vertical line (to have a negative
5 millimeters of steering offset ) and an inclination
“caster” of 12° plus an
advance of steering of 16 millimeter (so we have 35 millimeters at
ground). In
order to make this I have used two iron blocks
with the dimensions that you found later. It is the only
thing that I
have not made (thank you Matteo) because drill and males of exaggerated
dimensions are used! If you want, also aluminum
can be
used, I think that is not a problem and with a beautiful saving of
weight.
The blocks have two sides cut to 18° thus can be pierced
with a column drill.
Remember to make them
symmetrical and not equal.
For spherical joints I have used 12 millimeter self-lubricating ones,
to be precise SKF SA 12 C.
The wheels hubs (in my case Pazzaz for downhill, 110
millimeter and 36 holes) have a 20 millimeter hole and therefore a
standard bolts 160 millimeter long and threaded M20 for
52 millimeter goes very well, eventually, if you are of the refined
ones, lighten them.
The M20 nut has been turned to a diameter of 24 millimeter
for 5 millimeter to be able to enter in the pierced block (25/26
millimeter for 6 millimeter). If you do not want
turn nut, and pierce the block, lowers it by 5 millimeter.
This is important because otherwise, protruding,
they, during the curves, would touch against the irons ( C 30x20x2
millimeter) that support the spherical joints.
For the same reason
it is extremely important that these irons supports
are
not in axis regarding the wheels but at 40°.
A greater inclination, steering in other direction,
would make to touch the disc brake!
Connecting road of the steering is mild steel of 6 millimeter threaded
M6 to the extremities with spherical joints
self-lubricating (in my case SKF SIKB 6 F).
Do not use
absolutely threaded bars or soft iron, they are
loaded at the
tip and would be folded!
Since the two connecting road cross them, since disc brakes, not being
build left and rights, are up and down mounted and
since steering
arm are mounted at different heights, calculation it’s a
complicate job!
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